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About the Royal Dornoch Golf Club

By Donald Booker-Milburn

Golf has been played over the links of Dornoch for a very long time. King James IV of Scotland may have played, and Robert Stuart, Bishop of the Diocese of Catt, a St. Andrew’s man, must have; and that was before 1600. The first six historic links of which there are mention are: St Andrews (1552), Leith (1593), Dornoch (1616), Montrose (1628), Aberdeen (1642) and Musselburgh (1672). Sir Robert Gordon, tutor to a young Earl of Sutherland and historian of the Earldom, wrote (1630): "About this toun (along the sea coast) ther are the fairest and largest linkes, (or green fields), of any pairt of Scotland, fitt for archery, goffing, ryding, and all other exercise; they doe surpasse the feilds of Montrose of St Andrews." In 1630 no golf course as we know a golf course today had been laid out and Sir Robert’s use of ‘surpasse’ must mean ‘greater in extent’ or does it?

Royal Dornoch Golf Club, as clubs go, is quite young. On 5th November 1877 (without fireworks) the Sutherland Golfing Society, who played golf over the links of Dornoch and Golspie, applied through their Secretary Alexander McHardy, to the Town Clerk of the Royal Burgh for permission to play golf over that part of the links of Dornoch, the property of the Royal Burgh. Permission was granted on 9 November, 1877 "Such permission being held by the society at the pleasure of the Magistrates and Town Council, who hereby reserve to themselves power to withdraw the same at any time if so advised." Permission was not given to the burgesses of the Royal Burgh to play golf over the patrimonial lands of the Burgh, such permission being unnecessary because they had played golf over those lands from time immemorial. Permission was given to the Society, some of whose members may not have been burgesses, to play golf over the links. So the Dornoch Golf Club was born. In 1906, by gracious permission of King Edward VII, not without the influence of Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland, Dornoch Golf Club was allowed to use the style, title and dignity of ‘Royal’. The House of Sutherland was later to help the club in a most significant way, but that is to move ahead too quickly. One shot at a time is the best advice in golf!

In 1883 John Sutherland became Secretary and Treasurer and guided the Club and the golf courses for 53 years. Continuity of that length lays down a sure foundation and forges a solid tradition. Royal Dornoch Golf Club was fortunate to have John Sutherland at the right time and the club owes much to him. His ability at the game, his knowledge of it, of greenkeeping, of golf architecture and of design were of the highest. In 1886 Old Tom Morris was invited to lay out ‘nine proper golfholes’ and with the addition of a further nine three years later, Dornoch had an 18 hole course measuring some 5285 yards. The introduction of the rubber core ball saw the course lengthened to 5960 yards by 1904, some 187 yards shorter than the Old Course, 11 longer than Muirfield and 155 longer than Prestwick. The man responsible for these changes was John Sutherland, but Donald Ross, not yet of Pinehurst and Pan-American fame, and J.H. Taylor, Open Champion and destined to win another four, should not be forgotten. Minor changes, in the main subtle and merely imitating the work of the nature, were made between 1906 and the next major change in the early 1940’s.

Hitler’s war had an effect on Royal Dornoch as it had on Turnberry and Princes’, Sandwich. Much of the Ladies’ course was flattened for a relief airfield in the event of more important airfields being bombed. The decision was taken to construct further holes out towards Embo and once again the House of Sutherland helped by leasing the land to the Club. (The land was later sold to the club at a price which amounted almost to a gift).

It is only recently that Royal Dornoch has hosted what may be called a major championship. The Home Internationals were played in 1980 and in 1985 the British Amateur came, Jose-Maria Olazabal hoping to defend his title. He was unlucky to catch the wind in an evil-mood and failed to qualify. The story that Royal Dornoch is too far away - the same latitude as Hudson’s Bay and North of Moscow - dies hard. It may have been Ultima Thule to the Romans, but it is the ultimate to a growing number of golfers.

Wherein lies the appeal of Royal Dornoch? Donald Steel has written about traditional courses inducing respect rather than the fear that the penalty for almost perfect shots will be far in excess of the crime. "It is not difficult," he writes, "to make courses impossible but that is a betrayal of true principles. The real capacity of every great golf course lies in its appeal and its enjoyment value - enjoyment for every class of golfer." Those remarks were made of the Old Course but they apply with equal force to Royal Dornoch. There is plenty of room off the tee, but where to place the drive depends on the wind and the pin positions. If you think out your shot well, you will get your reward. Joyce Wethered (as she was when she wrote) said "I know of no other links which possess a more complete charm." And so say many others.

The golfer should never forget that there is more art than science to golf. It is a game played outside on a natural terrain which changes throughout the year and in weather which can change from hour to hour. The course, like many historic links, goes almost straight out and straight back, but the angle changes subtly at each hole; the greens are big and undulating and many are plateaux requiring well hit shots; nothing is hidden, but it requires a golfer playing at his best to see it all and adjust his strategy.

The club now owns the land from just off the fourth tee round to the thirteenth green of the Championship course. The rest of the course and the Struie course is on land now leased from Sutherland District Council. George Duncan (Open Champion) was the architect for the new holes, but much advice and help was received from D.G. (Danny) McCulloch (Club Professional) and Robbie Grant (Head Greenkeeper).

The course today has undergone minor changes since the 1940’s; championship tees have been lengthened and a number of bunkers removed which were serving no purpose with the improvement in the ball and the Club. It is to be hoped that the R&A and the USGA will continue to monitor matters so that the many fine courses will remain the fine test they always were. Forced changes are another matter and make life very difficult for the those trying to preserve a piece of golfing history.

Many have written about Royal Dornoch and one has to be selective. Bernard Darwin never played and was conscious of the gap in his education: "and then alas! - worst of all the deficiencies in my education - there is Dornoch... Mr Roger Wethered has assured me, in the most solemn tones of which he is capable, that it is the best golf in the world." (The Golf Courses Of Great Britain) Across the Atlantic Herbert Warren Wind wrote in the New Yorker (1964): "In a word, I found Dornoch all I had hoped it would be - a thoroughly modern old links with that rare equipoise of charm and character that only great courses possess." Many famous names have played these links: Harold Hilton, John Ball, John L. Low (who became a member), Harry Vardon, James Braid, J.H. Taylor, Bobby Locke, Billy Joe Patton, Bob Charles, Jack Newton, Greg Norman to name a few. Ben Crenshaw came and gathered further evidence for his view that golf on a natural linksland turf beside the sea is the best experience in golf. Tom Watson, before winning one of his Opens, came to play a round, played three and said that he had never had so much fun on a golf course in his life.

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