By Donny Macleod.
In its diversity
of habitats the south-east of Sutherland far
outstrips other areas of the District. Even the coastline presents
a variety of outstanding features ranging through the mudflats
of the Dornoch Firth with their adjoining patches of
salt marsh; extensive stretches of sandy beaches interspersed
here and there with rocks, and backed by marram dunes
and links; the superb salt water basin of Loch Fleet;
and at the extreme north end a small portion of coastal
cliffs at the Ord of Caithness. Autumn and winter are,
perhaps, the best seasons for bird- watching on the coast when the
sea duck and wader populations reach peak numbers. An
Eider raft, sometimes numbering up to 3000 birds, can
usually be seen off the bar at the entrance to Loch
Fleet and, if one is lucky, the sighting of a
King Eider may be obtained, as since 1973 at least two
have accompanied common Eider flocks feeding in the Loch Fleet
or Embo Pier areas. This coastline attracts large numbers of common waders and,
particularly during August and September, some less common species such as
Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Green
and Wood Sandpipers. Here, too, have been sighted four Nearctic
waders – White-rumped Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, Buff-breasted Sandpiper and Lesser Yellowlegs.
The Stilt Sandpiper was the first Scottish record
and first British spring record. The last point is of particular interest
as the species migrates chiefly west of the Mississippi and is
less common on the Atlantic coast where it appears
chiefly in autumn. A wader whose over-wintering
numbers have considerably increased in recent years is the Grey
Plover. Annually, since 1946, when it was first discovered,
is a Sandwich Tern roost about 1 mile west
of Dornoch Point. The birds arrive in early
April, build up to about 500 in number, and disperse
in mid May, presumably to some breeding site. Apart from
isolated areas of agricultural land scattered, here and there, in the
interior and on the coast of the north and west,
the main concentration of the District’s arable land is confined to a
narrow strip extending along the east coast. In general
the farms are situated on the lower ground adjoining
the shoreline while crofts of varying size merge into the uplands.
Barley and oats are the chief cereal crops but wheat
is also grown occasionally; root crops include potatoes, swedes and turnips.
Hay has always been the staple grass crop, but in
recent years there has been a tendency to cut grass for silage, the
earlier cutting of which may have a harmful effect on ground-nesting
birds. Unlike many extensive arable areas, which tend to look
rather featureless, the agricultural strip of south-east Sutherland, owing to
its diversity of landscape, is of particular attraction to the ornithologist.
Breaking the continuity of arable farmland
are several villages with their colourful cottage gardens, a
county burgh with distinctive architectural charm, deciduous and
coniferous woods and the stately, parkland policies of Skibo and
Dunrobin Castles. Moreover, on one side, the moors and mountains
of the vast hinterland are always visible while, on the other
hand, stretches the sea. Autumn through to early spring is,
perhaps, the best time for observing birds on farmland. It is then
that the stubbles and pastures attract numerous species including
wildfowl, waders, pigeons, corvids and the winter thrushes, while
a variety of seed bearing plants, growing by the unkempt field
edges, entice finches and buntings. In early March the lapwings
return to their breeding haunts in the marshy fields. Is there
anything more evocative of springtime than the call and flight
display of the Lapwing when heard at dusk on a March evening? The
Redshank also breeds in the same habitat. Within the past few
decades the Oystercatcher has taken to breeding on farm pastures,
sometimes even nesting in young cereal crops and, more recently,
the Curlew has become a convert to nesting in pasture fields.