About Dornoch - Scotland

 [A Brief History] [Golf ]  [Archeaology]  [Short WalksBird Watching]   [Visitor Attractions]  

 

Archeology of the Royal Burgh of Dornoch

By Resurgam

For the purpose of this article, the position that ‘Archaeology’ is the pursuit of history from where the written sources of history fail us.

In Dornoch, the written historical sources are thin indeed. Our main written source, by Mackay, the Town Clerk in 1926, provides few references, or indeed where his references could be found. Most of the works on Dornoch since Mackay simply follow uncritically in his trail. This leaves the way open for archaeology to fill these gaps.

Dornoch would have had obvious attractions as a settlement area for hunter-gathers of the early Stone Age [or Mesolithic] peoples following the slowly retreating ice around 9,000 years ago. They would have exploited the original, ‘raised’ beach that would have run from just in front of Cnoc-an-lecht, snaking around the first tee of the golf course to the north and east, and below the current road past the Academy and inland to west.

The Dornoch burn also provides a rare source of running water on the north side of the Firth. The red sandstone cliffs would have also made for an easy landmark for these nomadic bands - perhaps even forming a cultural focus. At the present, there have been no finds from of the Mesolithic period around Dornoch. Any traces of their slight shelters and shallow pits in the ground would have been removed long ago. Perhaps some sharp-eyed person might find some of their distinctive small flints on the golf course?

Around 6,000 years ago, the earlier Hunter-Gathering life style of the previous 4,000 years was rapidly replaced by incoming farmers. This was the ‘New Stone Age’ [or Neolithic]. With a new style of living, came new cultural ideas. The Mesolithic ‘hunter gathers’ left us with very little of their lives. The new farmers bequeathed their dead to posterity. They were usually interred in common mausoleums, or latterly, in single cist burials. Their cairns seem to have held a long sequence of communal burials, then seemingly sealed with a single complete human internment. There are traces of a possible cairn on the north east slope of the Burghfield visible as a spread of stones after ploughing. A polished stone axe, [a common grave good of this period] was recovered from this area. The Spinningdale area has an interesting collection of surviving cairns. From the Spinningdale and Embo [Grannie’s Highland Home] cairns, it is possible to speculate that these cairns were meant to be viewed from quite specific areas. Alternatively, they form viewpoints for specific areas - perhaps these areas either spiritually or physically ‘belonged’ to those interred within their home area cairn? Field walking in recent years has produced evidence of Neolithic imported flint working on the Cuthill links, and flint artifacts from Ospisdale.

The transitional period to the Bronze age is marked by single cremated or inhumation burials in stone-slab lined lists, with small pottery vessels, a flint item or two, and perhaps small bronze items being recovered. This suggests a change from loosely organised societies to groups with a personal focus. Perhaps, a change from a more general ‘clan’ ancestor worship, towards a central priest or chieftain. At Dornoch, a cist was uncovered at the old Forestry Commission Plantation on the Embo Road. It is interesting to note that these single burials were covered with stone cairns, often of some complexity. These covering cairns were then often used for the interment of cremations. The area around these cairns then attracted later burials, sometimes into the historical period. The Plantation cist had sadly lost its cairn marker, which probably saved it from looters and ‘antiquarians’. Another typical Bronze age monument is the ‘megalith’ or standing stone. Although no megaliths have survived in Dornoch, there are examples close by at Ospisdale and Creich, both associated with cemeteries down the centuries.

The Scottish Bronze age lasts until around 500BC, when Iron Age artifacts make their appearance. The Iron Age is structurally represented in Scotland, and especially in the Dornoch Firth area, by ‘Hut Circles’, Brochs and crannogs or artificial islands. The hut circles are interesting as they take many forms. Some are terraced, with and without stone walls, others are on the flat with or without external ditches, others are more sunken. Some have a ‘souterrain’, or extended cellar running from them, as was found at Cyderhall in the early 1980’s. Some of the huts may have been largely built in stone, as in the Hebrides. It is possible that some of what are now termed Brochs are actually large circular stone built ‘huts’ - or wheelhouses. The somewhat disparaging term ‘hut’ tends to overlook the point that these structures have ground areas somewhat larger than the present day house. It is probable that most were one and a half stories high internally, with livestock below, people above, as in modern Scandinavian or Alpine farms. Although roundhouses first appear in the Bronze Age, and some in Argyll were occupied into the 1000’s AD! Interesting examples of ‘sunken’ round houses can be viewed in the Camore Wood, just to the south east of Dornoch.

In Scotland, their is no clear defining event to end the Iron Age. In England, the arrival of the Roman legions [55 AD] is generally taken as being the end of their Iron age. Locally, we have recently recovered Romano-British goods imported from the south. There are 1st/2nd century AD brooches from Auchenchanter and Ospisdale. Unfortunately, we do not know if they were buried as grave goods, hoards, offerings, or lost, or even how they got to the Dornoch area.

The main cultural entities we have during the Iron Age are the Celts and the Picts. The Picts have been now incorporated into the European-wide culture of the ‘Celts’ as portraying an early form of European Union. The Picts have largely disappeared from the historical record as they did not have a written culture. The main record for the Picts are their carved stones. These permanent Pictish records are abundant around the Firth - at Portmohomack, Edderton, Kincardine and Creich. All these stones are or were in what are now Christian centres. Dornoch alone does not have surviving Pictish stones. This is surprising, as Dornoch has an early Irish Christian founding legend, and a favourable geographical location. There are Pictish place names in the vicinity, [e.g. Pitgrudy?] but nothing tangible has been located from the Picts within Dornoch.

The culture responsible for first writing down [and thereby fixing] the place names in the Dornoch area was the Roman Christian church. These early priests would have had as their symbol their written ‘book’ which held their ‘word’. Once established, the Christian priests would soon have been invaluable in Royal households as the permanent recorders of land charters, services owed, stock owned, and letter writers. However, it is interesting to note, that in the Dornoch Firth, as elsewhere, the Church used earlier religious places and symbols for its own purposes. The examples at Creich and Edderton have been noted above. An interesting point is - from were and when did the early church arrive in Dornoch, and who was its local protector or sponsor? At the present, the feeling is that the original Church came from Iona, down through Assynt and along the Oykel. The vitrified fort on Dun Creich would represent an example of a ‘Royal’ location begging direct comparison with Dunadd in Argyll or Dumbarton Rock. There are unsubstantiated reports of ‘Culdee cells’ being found during the building of the Burgh School. The Culdees were the earlier ‘Celtic’ church priests, continuing in the tradition of St Ninnian at Whithorn.

Another interesting point is that the Church in Dornoch seems to predate the Viking or Norse arrival. In the ‘Orkenying Saga’, it is made out that ‘Sigurd the Mighty’ 1st Earl of Orkney, [c.850 AD] was not a mere ‘Viking’, or summer raider, but a man representing a vigorous new conquering culture. It may be, after removing Earl Maelbgyte, [a rare recording of a Pictish personal name], Sigurd merely took over a well run ‘kingdom’, its royal estates and clerics. This is echoed in the Charter for Gilbert’s Cathedral, as noted by Mackay, in that the farms and estates present in the early 20th century were present some 800 years previously. Could one postulate that Sigurd took over an estate based on Skibo [‘Sigurds Bo’ - ‘Bo’ = Norse for estate farm] as his residence, flanked by a church estate on what is now Dornoch, and another large estate being based on Creich? Some local Norse place names are e.g. ‘Pennyland’ [a taxation unit], Spinningdale and Ospisdale [for the Round and Opi’s valleys respectively, Norse ‘dalr’ = valley]. Again, nothing Norse is recorded within the Dornoch burgh area. The Norse period finds are largely the rich pagan Norse female burial goods from Ospisdale. A recent Dornoch find is a small enamelled bronze hand bell, possibly from Meol, Cambridgeshire, from around 1000 AD, but normally associated with late Norse occupation. The fortuitous archaeological intervention at the Business Park site would seem to indicate the presence of an almost industrial scale iron smelting of bog ore, with smithing within the former machair sand dunes, probably Scandinavian. This large scale integrated iron working is interesting, as it may be the source of iron for the contemporary smiths over at Portmohomack. The site also produced part of a later, large wooden house/byre structure. If these ‘Dark Age’ dates are proven, this site would be of international significance for the period.

The Norse incomers seem to have been assimilated into the local population fairly rapidly. A reason would be that the Norse settlers would have been relatively few in number compared to the local populace, and were cut off by bad seas from their northern power base for some six months of the year. The changing situation is reflected in the rise of Gaelic place names in the land records and place names. An example is Auchenchanter - the Farm of the [Cathedral] Precentor.

The church was also experiencing difficulties, seemingly of its own making. The loss of two bishops of Caithness in Halkirk, led to a brutally put down insurrection in these Norse lands. A new warrior bishop was appointed, primarily for his ability to raise armed forces to protect himself, the new secular Scottish state, and the Church, from his family base across the Moray Firth.

The new bishop, Gilbert de Moravia, built what is Dornoch’s prime archaeological artefact, the Cathedral, when he moved his seat from Halkirk in 1233. His chosen site was close to the original church, known by 1223, of St Finbarr. Bishop Gilbert’s cathedral precinct would have been expected to include a Bishop’s palace complex, monk’s dormitories, a guest house, manses for the vicars of the Diocese and cathedral officials, accommodation for the lay household, horses, a mill, gardens and probably a ‘home’ farm. These structures have been swept away, and the precinct boundaries lost. Although some possible ditch traces were observed in the High Street electrical undergrounding. The cathedral has also lost its side aisles and chapter house [the connecting priests chapel] which stood close to where the Market Cross now stands. The manses seem to have been sited at St. Michael’s over the burn. The Dornoch burn had a mill, and a mill pond. These too, have been lost. The original Bishop’s Palace complex traditionally stood where the court buildings stand today. From the Business Park project, one may postulate that the original ‘town’ of Dornoch only contained the Church structures. The lay people may have occupied the ‘natural wastes’ of the surrounding machair, using the dunes for shelter from the sea winds.

The next major archaeological event is the 1570 burning of Dornoch. The town records which were stored in the Cathedral were lost. The Countess of Sutherland’s building campaign of 1810-15 completely destroyed the Medieval town layout. The removal of the mediaeval structures begs the question of how the old structures were disposed of? Presumably the rubble would have been used to infill the old Dornoch burn. Possible survivors are the ‘Dornoch Imp’, probably a [corbel or beam support], opposite the present Deanery, and a matching pair of square cut red sandstone blocks with a recessed panel built into the churchyard wall just to the west of the Market Cross gate.

The renewal of the electricity supply in the High Street and St. Michael’s areas as observed by interested locals revealed interesting glimpses of the lost medieval Dornoch. In the High Street, at the Bank of Scotland, a continuous layer of charcoal, was recorded sitting on sand directly below the pavement. Is this the remnants of the 1570 town burning?

At the entrance to Gilchrist Square, a pit allowed close examination of a probable ditch infill. This was a sticky black organic deposit, interleaved with downwards dipping bands of sea shells. This fill extends east and west along the street. A pottery fragment with a green glaze [typically 13-15th century] was recovered from this deposit. This is the only known archaeological pottery fragment from Dornoch town centre. The ditch may be the original cathedral yard ditch. Most of the trenches in the east end of the High Street produced fragments of sheep skulls and lower legs - [from skinning?] A couple of human limb bones were also recovered, much less than expected. This surprising lack may be due to the substantial depth and extent of the modern levelling up of the eastern High Street, covering any archaeology.

An interesting revelation was the rubble filled corner of a substantial stone structure aligned north east, running off under the present chemist shop. This is assumed to be the later [1730] town chambers, which replaced the chapter house which had served this purpose previously. A trench hard by the small bridge confirmed that the present burn channel is cut directly into undisturbed glacial deposits. Archaeological deposits were observed under the road by St Michael’s, itself incorporating late medieval stone work. These deposits may mark the edge of the original burn course.

The drain cuts at the entrance to the Business Park raised the tantalising possibility that the ‘Meadows’ road tarmac covers a substantial ditch. Perhaps a ditch for the Bishop’s Castle or even the southern edge of the original Cathedral precinct ? Many other structural ditches were noted, but not investigated, during the road instatement during the Business Park works.

Unfortunately for the archaeology of Dornoch there is apparently no requirement for archaeological investigations during trenching works, even within the Historic Scotland ‘zone of archaeological interest’. This, in effect, means that it is unlikely to be more archaeological discoveries in the burgh, unless there are new building foundations to be dug, which is improbable, given the constricted nature of burgh townscape. There is currently no evidence of any local interest in this aspect of the Burgh’s story. Indeed, the ‘improvements’ currently envisaged under the Euro-funded Moray Firth Small Towns scheme presages further damage to area of the former Bishop’s Close, the old graveyard, and other parts of the medieval town - all with no archaeological intervention! This is in spite of national and Euro planning guidelines to protect our archaeological heritage for posterity,

Anyone finding anything interesting should report it to the Council Museum Archaeologist. Before working on sites of potential archaeological significance, you could consult your local archaeologist [e.g. Resurgam!] for an opinion first.

Northlands [Archaeological] Tours are available to take small parties on archaeological tours of the Dornoch Firth.

Both RESURGAM! and Northlands can be contacted via ‘The Old Mill Inn’, Spinningdale, IV24 3AD. Tel - 01862 881 219. Email - Spinningdale@Yahoo.co.uk.

Other Places